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Chiniot is taken as an ancient and historical
town of Pakistan. The romantic waves of River Chenab are singing
sweet and melodious songs of love for the people of Chiniot. The
people of here are born with the romantic charm of the waves of
River Chenab. There is a lot of stories about the people and
buildings of Chiniot. Such a beautiful story is presented before
you with the name of “Umar Hayat Mahal (Palace)”. This palace is
a tremendous piece of art of the people of Chiniot. Some people
call it as the “Taj Mahal” of Chiniot. Like Taj Mahal, this
palace also reminds us the fact that this world is not reliable.
The walls, rooms and the courtyards of this palace are a proof
of mirages and there we find a reality, which Quran defines in
the following lines:
“There are a lot of palaces which were changed into rubble. Have
these people not walked on the ground. So that they could watch
and understand.” (Surah Al-Hajj).
The proprietor of this palace, Umar Hayat was an ordinary person
of the “Khoja” caste who came and settled here in Chiniot during
the eighteenth and nineteenth century. But he was bestowed him
with so much wealth which made him distinguished than others.
The source of his wealth is also a secret because no one has
given any authentic information about his source of income. Some
people say that he was a successful trader and in his life he
always earned profit. But some people also say that he was a
gambler. He was also fond of race and he earned a lot of money
in this way. Now people do not think about the source of income
of a person, but in those days it was a social rule that a
person would not on the basis of his wealth but on the basis of
his honest and respected occupation or source of income. Umar
Hayat earned a lot of wealth but he could gain a respectable
status in the society.
He often used to regret that neither his wealth
could be used for any good purpose nor it could be given to
needy as alms so that it would become a source of God fovour and
kindness for him. Once some persons of the administration of
“Anjuman-e-Islamia” made a contact with Umar Hayat and requested
for donation. When Umar Hayat informed about the origin of his
wealth, they went away saying that they had only need the wealth
which is earned in a right way. Umar Hayat was a man of strange
kind. He used to sit in the gate of his mansion wearing bracelet
of gold and silk garments, but he could not manage how to spend
his wealth. One say a famous carpenter of Chiniot, Elahi Bux
passed from there and laughed at the strange condition of Umar
Hayat. This laughing was a like a whip for Umar Hayat. He asked
Elahi Bux that he was just an orinary and why was he feeling so
proud? In reply, Elahi Bux said that he had the wealth of art,
which is stronger than any other power. It was another attack on
the pride of Umar Hayat. He made Elahi Bux annoyed and asked,
“Your art is nothing before my wealth. If you are so much proud
of your art, I challenge you. I will show the power of my wealth
and you will show the power of your art.” Elahi Bux became
agreed as it had become a matter of respect of life for him. In
this way the construction of this great building started.
The construction was started in 1923 A.D. The only son of the
Umar Hayat, Gulzar Muhammad was still in the lap of his mother
when the construction of this palace was started for his
residence. No one knew that Gulzar Muhammad will be buried in
the same castle without having any kind of pleasure of youth.
Syed Hassan Shah was appointed as the supervisor. According to
some tales, it is said that he was Hassan Shah who was the real
cause for the construction of this palace. He tried his best to
find the best artisans of Chiniot to build this tremendous
building. Umar Hayat seldom used to come here and made fun of
the hard working and straddle of the artisans. Particularly, he
made fun of Elahi Bux Pirgha. Pigha was the caste of Elahi Bux.
Still there are many families of “Pirgha” caste in Chiniot.
Whenever Umar Hayat came there, he tried to demonstrate his
wealth. He offered that if a person only fixed a single brick,
he would pay him the wages for the whole day work. Behind his
this offer, he just wanted to earn name by offering huge amounts
to different people. Umar Hayat became immortal because of the
construction of this wonder, but the persons who made hard
struggle to construct this building are losing their identity.
The most important characters are of Elahi Bux Pirgha and Raheem
Bux Pirgha. Both were cousine and there was no one in Chiniot
who would compete with them in “carving” on wood. “Mian Allah
Ditta” was the name of the father of Elahi Bux Pirgha. This
family gave a new and novel touch to the field of wood-carving
in Chiniot. It is the same family who started to construct
“Tazia”. The famous taziae of “Shadi Malang” and “Rangraze” was
prepared by Elahi Bux Pirgha and Raheem Bux. We can get a proof
of their intelligence and mastery in the field of wood-carving
that all the designed made in the Umar Hayat Mahal (Palace) were
the creation of their own mind. Because in those days there no
design-books or models. Elahi Bux Pirgha was not only expert
only in wood-carving but he was jack of all trades. Their
children are still working and making the name of their
forefathers more famous. The work of brick-fixing was performed
by “Mistri Ahmad Din” who worked with the cooperation of many
laborers and workers of “Rajaan” (the name of a locality in
Chiniot). Stucco-work was the fruit of the hard work of the
famous masons of Jalandher, “Mistri Niaz Ahmad Jalandhri” and
“Mistri Ghulgm Ali Jalandhri”. The halls of “Jamia Mosque Garha”
and Islamia College, Chiniot were also constructed by Mistri
Niaz Ahmad Jalandhri”. Wall-painting was performed by a famous
painter John Muhammad. His relatives may be found in Kamangraan
locality. Besides John Muhammad, his nephew, Ghulam Mohauddin
also worked here who also took part in the renovation of Wazir
Khan Mosque. Besides these famous artisans and masons, there
were hundred of many other laborers who made the dream of Umar
Hayat true. But, these days, no one knows them. It’s a tragedy
that we remember the tremendous monuments and buildings but we
forget those who are its real creators.
If we divide the time by days and nights, we can say that the
Umar Hayat Mahal (Palace) was built in ten years. There are
different tales and stories about the starting and ending dates
of the Umar Hayat Mahal (Palace) and are different to each
other. But one thing is authentic that in 1928 A.D, its
structure and outer designing had been completed because in the
gazetteer of District Jhang of 1929 A.D. it is stated:
“House built by Sheikh Umar Hayat is a sort of local wonder as
it cost more than 2 lakhs of rupees and rises high above all
other buildings.”
But the work of wood-carving and wall-painting in inner side
were continued. Even in 1935 A.D. when Umar Hayat died, this
work was still uncompleted. We can get its proof from the window
of main gate, which is still uncompleted. It means that after
spending so much amount and struggle, the artisans did not lose
heart. Elahi Bux Pirgha got over the confliction of wealth and
art. With the death of Umar Hayat, the pride of his wealth also
finished.
At the time of death of Umar Hayat, his son Gulzar Muhammad was
thirteen of fourteen years old. He and his mother got a huge
amount of wealth and property in heritage. But, there were also
the shadows of misfortune hovering on the pleasures of these
mother and son. The wodow of Umar Hayat, Fatima Bibi belonged to
Pindi Bhattian (a town near Chiniot). She was not of a famous
family and that’s why the family of Umar Hayat did not like
their marriage. His wealth sowed a seed of jealousy and envy in
their heart. She had to face a lot of difficulties after the
death of her husband, but this brave and courageous woman did
not lose heart and remained busy in the training and education
of her only son. Gulzar Muhammad was the center of all her
thoughts, wishes and pleasures. The poor and needy persons of
Chiniot remember her as a kind and generous woman. There are
many hand-pumps and well in the city which were erected and
built on her order. When Gulzar Muhammad came of age, Fatima
Bibi decided to celebrate the marriage ceremony of Gulzar
Muhammad in order to regain the pleasures of Umar Hayat Mahal
(Palace). The rituals of marriage were fully enjoyed by all and
sundry. The whole city was happy because of this marriage
ceremony. There is no more example of such a tremendous marriage
ceremony in the history of Chiniot. Fatima Bibi opened her
coffers for the arrangement of the marriage. All the needy and
poor were given large amount of wealth. It was announced that
anyone who would watch the smoke, rising from the hearths, think
oneself invited into this party. But the fate had made other
decisions. Fate had replaced happiness and the pleasures of
marriage for sadness and death. And the whole happy marriage
ceremony turned into a terrible accident. The flowers of his
marriage bed turned into the flowers of his coffin. On the very
morning of his “walima”, when Gulzar Muhammad entered into the
bathroom to take bath, he could not come out alive. It was his
last step which led him towards death. The gas of the coals
which were fired to heat up the water could not be exhausted
because of the problem in exhausting system. The bathroom filled
with this poisonous gas and Muhammad Gulzar died because of
suffocation. Some people think that his enemies killed him by
poison because, before going to bathroom, his wife gave him a
betel-leaf which Muhammad Gulzar spat after a short time and its
signs were found on the door of the bathroom. But none could
find the reality. The death of Muhammad Gulzar is still a
mystery. Poor Fatima had lost all the wealth of her life. Now
the sadness was hovering upon the Umar Hayat Mahal and the whole
city was sad at the death of Gulzar Muhammad. The people who
came to enjoy the party of the marriage of Gulzar Muhammad were
now offering his last prayer. Despite the fact that all the
relatives disliked but Fatima decided to bury his son in the
same house. Life did not let him to live here but death became a
source for his living in this house forever.
E. Z. E. The reason behind this decision was that Miss. Fatima
Did not wants the great Umer Hayat palace to be occupied by
their relatives who ever hate and felt jealousy for Umaer Hayat
and because this palace was built for Gulzar Muhammad so she
wanted to make it his lasting residence. Miss Fatima could not
maintain herself after this dreadful accident and died few
months after her son’s death. She was also buried in the side of
her son in the same palace because of her will. Young widow of
Gulzar Muhammad had already gone, so all the relatives of Umer
Hayat distributed his wealth and property among themselves. They
left this grand palace thinking it ominous
The aged people still have this story in their minds but some
people changed this story and gave it other style of romantle
stones etc. this is the reason that even after seventy years,
there are so many stories about Umer Hayat Mahal. Ahmad Ghazali,
author of “Sandal Bar”, gives some new informations after a log
struggle.
He says,
“This palace of Chiniot describes the story of past in present
time. There was a beautiful garden. The son of Umer Hayat,
Gulzar Muhammad, happened to pass from here on a beautiful
moon-night. He founded a beautiful young girl busy in dance. He
became the victim of her beauty and lost his heart. The young
girl belonged to a poor family but she was -------------. Who
watehes other women”. But Gulzar Muhammad did not feel
disappointed at both were engaged. Soon after the engagement,
his father Umer Hayat was to face the loss of one lakh and he
took this engagement as a bad ominous. Umer Hayat wanted to
refrain his son of the marriage, but Gulzar Muhammad did not
change his mind. At last their marriage was fired. During this
period, Umer Hayat died. On the night of wedding, there was a
large number of guests and people, and none of them know what
was going the happened in the wedding room. In the morning, when
Gulzar Muhammad awoke and went direct to bathroom. After passing
much time, Gulzar Muhammad did not come out of the bathroom, his
newly-married wife become worried. The mother of Gulzar Muhammad
knocked at the door and his daughter in law told her the mother.
They called Gulzar Muhammad but there was no Response. At last,
the door was broken and they found Gulzar Muhammad dead. His
mother could not face this and also died on the spot. Both
mother and son were buried in the same building. The widow of
Gulzar Muhammad shifted in a near by castle and passed her whole
life there. Twenty years ago, when author was collecting the
details, the widow of Gulzar Muhammad was alive but no one could
see her. As it was a custom, an aged maid came out the castle
after many days and again went into the castle after buying
necessities of life. She told the author that her mistress never
shut her eyes and kept on staring at. Sometimes, she started
weeping and never talked to anyone. The author was also told
that even a female could not go inside the house but only the
maid.”
The author of “Loke Punjab”, Mazhar-ul-Islam described Sheikh
Umar Hayat in following words.
“it is said that Umar Hayat was the only son of his parents.
When his father died, he sold the jewellery of his mother and
went to Calcutta. There, he started gambling. He dealt in ships
of leather, but often faced loss. After sometime, he started
drinking. He used to go to “Red Light Area” and visited a
singer. He just listened the music and never tried to make any
relation. They fell in love. She gave him money for business.
This time he became very rich and prosperous. He returned to
Chiniot. His relatives did not accept him. He got built this
palace in a small place which he bought with much difficulty.
During this period he became the father of a son. He married his
son in the family. But the very next morning of his marriage he
was found dead in the bathroom. The death of young son proved so
fatal for Umar that he also died. His son was buried in the same
bouse but he was buried in graveyard. After sometime, his widow
also died was buried in the side of his son where she has
already got her grave built. There are two reference for Umer
Hayat son.”
1. His wife gave him poisonous betel.
2. He was died due to the gas of stone coal.
The map of this palace was made by “Ustad Elahi Bux” who was one
of the greatest carpenter of Chiniot.
The writer of the romantic stories of Jhnag, Bilal Zuberi says
that Noor Bux was the name of Umer Hayat’s father. Umer Hayat
went to Calcutta for trade and earned a lot of wealth. He had a
daughter too besides Gulzar Muhammad, his son. She died at the
very young age two years after her marriage due to illness. Umer
Hayat got this palace built for his son and gave it the name
“Gulzar Manzil”. Manzil mean storey or house. Umer Hayat died
before its completion. His widow engaged his son with the
daughter of Umer’s brother. But Gulzar Muhammad was found dead
in the bathroom very next morning of his marriage. He was buried
in the same palace. After sometime, the widow of Gulzar Muhammad
was married to a relative and was sent to Calcutta, but she gave
birth no baby. The mother of Gulzar Muhammad died four year
after the death of his son.
By these different stories, we can’t say what is real fact?
These are good additions in the history of mystery of Umer
Hayat. But all stories are connected with one point that this
family became a victim of jealousy. The whole family dispersed
like autumn-leaves and this palace is still shedding tears. Due
to the negligence of the relatives of Umer Hayat, the servants
of this building made it their residence and this grand piece of
art started to destroy.
In 1940, Anjuman-e-Islamia Chiniot wanted to get Umer Hayat
Palace for a girl’s school but their advice did not accepted and
this masterpiece of art was changed into an orphanage under the
custody of same organization. This decision was a worst addition
in this destruction. No one was interested in its beauty of art
and this building lost its charm. During the decade of 1970 A.D,
Tehsil Municipal Authority of Chiniot gave it an unbearable
shock by collapsing it highest story declaring. It was foolish
decision without any reason. There was no danger for the
building strength. Only the neighbours claimed that one can
easily watch into their houses through it windows. So the most
beautiful story of this building was collapsed. Some people
store the beautiful carved almirahs, windows and doors which,
later on, was seen in the houses of Islamabad. Many times, the
local people wanted to make authorities attentive towards this
rare piece of art, but in vain.
1990 A.D. is the second phase of the life of Umer Hayat palace.
It was the time, when there was the reign of dust, mud, termites
and negligence. The great heritage of Chiniot was going to
change into rubble day by day. There were numberless nests of
birds and bats used to live here. It was called a “ghost house”.
It was said soon this building will collapse and there would be
no more sign of Umer Hayat Palace. We may easily get the idea of
its condition through following lines.
“Don’t touch me as I am so weak, if you try to support me, I
will dash to ground”.
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